Clutch Magazine Vol.65 Stevenson Overall Co. article
CLUTCH Magazine Denim Made in Japan
"Talk about Military Clothing"
Stevenson Overall Co.
is known for reconstructing vintage wear as modern fashion items, and among their designs, we want to put the spotlight on their military items for this season. We sat down with designer Atsu Tagaya about Stevenson Overall Co.’s vision for military clothing.
"For military wear, I think it’s better to create conservative designs starting from the base items."
It would be correct to say that workwear, military and Western styles were the three major design elements from when I started the brand. Of them, this season offers items with lots of military elements. To me, military clothing is a bit different from other workwear because while on one hand they were originally produced with an emphasis on their functionality, they also possess a strong masculine aspect that can project a hero-like figure for a man. That’s why even with such simple colors, they are so fascinating in terms of design. Because I admire it so much, I sometimes find it difficult to add many new changes when creating my own designs based on actual vintage military wear. That is why generally, I prefer to create conservative designs.
However, there are other brands that create perfect reproductions of vintage designs, so by reconstructing them conservatively, I always think about wanting to create everyday wear based on the functional wear of the time. To put it simply, it’s like transforming a uniform into everyday garments. I believe that military wear is the perfect item as functional clothing, but if you asked me whether they are suited for everyday wear, I’d say no. Of course, I think it can be interesting to wear actual functional military wear from that era as part of your outfit, but as someone who makes clothing, I think it’s very important to continue evolving. For example, the bicycle was first developed during the 1950s. From there, the bicycle has evolved in terms of comfort, safety and amenities. In that sense, I think fashion is close to this. The basic structure of clothing has been established from quite a long time ago. That’s why I think that silhouettes and designs are necessary for clothing to continue evolving. I try to focus on creating comfortable and stylish garments while retaining the look and atmosphere of vintage military wear.
My favorite era of military clothing was probably right before the primary material started to transition from cotton to nylon. This season, we have many items that are made with cotton poplin fabric, but I’m a huge fan of the various prototypes that were created by people who wanted to weave cotton with a high density during the time before nylon started to appear, and this is my way of showing my respect to the items that existed during that era. Of course, I haven’t seen all of the vintage military wear in the world, but I hope that vintage lovers will appreciate military wear that has been designed conservatively as everyday wear, and we will continue to express our worldview as Stevenson Overall Company through our products.
After moving to the United States at the age of 15, he started an import agency of West Coast brands after returning to Japan. After meeting Zip Stevenson, the two launched Stevenson Overall Company. Inspired by American vintage designs, the brand reconstructs items using original designs and continues to produce products with an authentic vintage feel.
Clutch Magazine Stevenson Overall Co. Atsusuke Tagaya Japan Denim